1. WALK THE LINE
Eyeliner was given a wickedly graphic, ‘grunge punk couture’ spin this season, starting with Pat McGrath at Lanvin-meticulously drawing a pointed flick that extended out toward the temples, McGrath juxtaposed heavy black winged Cleopatra eyes against an utterly bare face, to Alber Elbaz`s delight: “He just loved the way the girls looked, like sketches-one perfect stoke on the eye,” the mighty maestro surmised. “It`s almost like an insignia.” Glam galore, ultra mod, effortlessly simple and bourgeois chic all at once-we really couldn`t ask for more.
2. CHEEK TO CHEEK
“It`s emulating the après-ski glow,” postulated Dick Page, referring to the “classic sportif” cheeks he adored on the models backstage at Michael Kors: “The way you`d get if you were cold, or hot, or excited.” Page added a chevron-shaped “bloody, wonky flush” by blending a deep crimson shade of lip lacquer from cheek to jawline for added lustre and a natural, flushed ruddiness, then set it to pop against lustrously iridescent skin in sublime haze of gold and white powder scattered along the upper lids and cheekbones.
3. THE WIND BLOWS
Paul Hanlon sent the girls at Vera Wang sweeping down the runway with tossed-about, windswept hair that stayed breezily afloat the entire time, sans wind tunnel. Hanlon characterised the look as having “a masculine, 1950s feel…very sporty, and athletic in a way”, plumping sopping wet tresses with a hefty dollop of mousse, blow-drying, brushing out and back-combing strands from nape to crown, scrunching through wax for hold and rolling the ends under for a ‘geisha roll’ effect.
4. SMOKE SIGNALS
The ubiquitous winter must-have gets a major update this season – a categorical standout were the sketched-lash smoky eyes at Jean Paul Gaultier, where Stephane Marais picked up on Gaultier`s Warhol superstar-esque, 70s reference, lining inner rims with black kohl pencil and using liquid liner to streak erratic strokes along the top and lower lash lines, jostled with his fingers for a destroyed smudged. Marais deemed the look as a ‘grunge-chich-slash-rock n` roll` version of the bleary-eyed girls at Studio 54, precisely what Jean Paul prescribed.