1. BARBIE GIRL
Drawing inspiration from the fantastic underwater fairytale set and metallic-threaded tweeds that took centre stage bat the Chanel show, Peter Philips sent models strutting down the runway in full mermaid flare. Sporting lusciously luminous skin in a haze of pink powder, creamy lids with flush accents on the outer corners and pale pink lips, the girls looked doll-like pretty, a look that Philips so aptly described as a “balance between shine and matte, a perfect way to float into spring 2012.”
2. TWISTED SISTER
“It`s a game of textures,” said Peter Philips backstage. “Mixing fur and leather with a graphic metallic element.” Referring to the eccentric but utterly bourgeois gold and silver-leaf metallic eyeshadow that adorned the girls at the Fendi show, Philips pressed silver bits of foil into Arizona Muse`s upper lids (Candice Swanepoel got the same treatment in gold), paired with nude lips matted down with foundation and winged eyeliner—undoubtedly the look that stole the show this season.
3. SMOKE SCREEN
Just as Kate and Laura Mulleavy’s collection was a meditation on the work of Vincent Van Gogh, so were James Kaliardos` rounded, midnight-blue intense smoky eyes at Rodarte: “The shape is circular, which is very van Gogh, and soft around the edges,” said Kaliardos. Hyperpigmented shades of cobalt and teal were offset against a resolutely post-impressionist palette of muted lavender lips and flushed peach cheeks for a look that was “dreamy and aggressive, all in the same moment.”
4. SCARLET FEVER
Charlotte Tilbury solidified matte lips as a staple this season with the wine-stained, chocolate lips she slicked onto models at Donna Karan. “A kind of sexy, sporty Yasmin le Bon,” said Tilbury, who declared, “Shine feels old these days. It`s got to be a matte lip.” Tilbury filled lips with the deepest, brownest pigment available and set the colour with a translucent powder, juxtaposing the look against contoured cheeks and a touch of retro with thick, Eighties-style brows.
5. GLAMOUR PUSS
Stéphane Marais went full-on retro femme at Jean Paul Gaultier, where the centrepiece was high gloss, candy apple red lips, lacquered on and sealed in with a clear vinyl gloss. “Everything else is a small detail. A little black liner, a little lash,” said Marais, who added perfectly-lined eyes, pristine skin and a tiny strip of curly fake lashes at the outer corners, turning each model into “a couture Parisienne. A little girl who wants to look made up.”